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fouroaks designs
1747 Georgetown Rd.
Volant, Pa 16156
(724)530-2417
fouroaksdesigns@earthlink.net


Framing
These hints and instructions are for heirloom framing, and although some minor
alterations have been made for the home framer, they will insure that your piece will
last through the years.
Please read all the hints and instructions through before you begin.
If possible, always wash your piece before framing. Dirt and oils from working the
piece can discolor and deteriorate your piece over time. Please check with your local
needlework shop however, as some fabrics and threads are NOT washable: such as
handpainteds, overdyeds, and teadyeds. Silk threads also require special care.
Always iron your piece before framing with the piece face down on a padded surface.
It really doesn't matter what flavor of dental floss or color of buttonhole twist/carpet
thread you use.
Do you like to enter your pieces in competition? Frame it properly yourself, and you'll
get extra points from the judges!
Your piece should never be directly against the glass-it must have room to "breathe' or
it will rot over time. Always use spacers or mat(s) if using glass, and allow extra
clearance if your piece has beads or other embellishments.
Regular glass if preferable for heirloom framing. Nonglare glass is treated with an
acid, which may not be completely removed even after cleaning, and therefore may
damage your piece over time.
Never hand your framed piece directly in sunlight or in an area with drastic changes in
heat or humidity. These will damage your piece over time, and quickly fade the colors.
Try to allow at least 3 inches on each side of your design for framing. If you finish
your design and don't have enough on the sides for framing, add a 2 inch strip of fabric
to each side (doesn't have to be evenweave, can even be calico!) and use that to lace to. It
will be hidden in the framing.
Once you become experienced at lacing, you may no longer have to pin your piece in
place, At that point you can lace one side, adjust your piece to center and then lace the
other side.
Alpha board, which is made from recycled rags and looks like speckled cardboard, is
completely acid free and the best mounting board for heirloom framing. You must be
able to lace without pinning to use alpha board.
Please do NOT use sticky board for mounting. It will rapidly deteriorate and ruin
your piece, and if you have to adjust your piece during framing, it may literally rip out
the fabric or stitching threads. Think of what happens to scotch tape over time-how it
cracks, hardens, yellows, and then just lets go. You definitely don't want this near
your beautiful needlework
Clean your work surface and wash your hands. Place your piece face down, and center
acid free foam core mounting board on the top of your piece. Pin along the outside
edge-leaving pins sticking out along the edge and placing every 1/4 to 1/2 inch-until
pleased with the results. At this point your piece will look like it's having a bad hair
day! Thread a needle with a long length of dental floss, buttonhole twist or carpet
thread. Fold fabric toward back on top and bottom of piece. Securely tie thread to
corner near edge of piece, and lace back and forth, going top to bottom, inserting needle
every 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Securely tie off thread, and repeat lacing procedure from side to
side. Remove pins. Place frame right side down onto table, insert glass and clean.
Insert spacers, if used, onto each side with sticky edge to the frame. Insert mats, if
used, into frame and then place piece into frame stitched side down. Turn your piece over
and check carefully to make sure no dust or fuzzies have are visible from the front.
Using a staple fun, place staples every 2-3 inches into frame- NOT INTO PIECE,
leaving them sticking out a short way. Press staples down firmly to hold piece in place.
Use a pencil to trace frame onto framing paper, sometimes called craft paper, and cut
out a slightly smaller size. Glue to frame using tacky glue, and let dry. Hand dampen
paper back with water, and dry with blow drier to tight. Screw in eyelet screws 1/3 way
down from the top of the frame at the widest part of the frame. Attach hanging wire,
twisting about 2 inches onto itself from the eyelet screw. Wire should stretch to within
1/2 way from top of frame. Glue a 1/2 inch circle of felt to each bottom back corner of
the frame.
Why should you frame your own needlework? The
best reason is that it can save you a great deal of
money over having a professional framer-sometimes
up to 50%! The other reason is that YOU will
know it is framed correctly. You have spent many
hours creating a beautiful work of art and will want
it to last for many years, for your enjoyment and the
enjoyment of others to come. You have created a
legacy with your needle, and it deserves to be treated
as such.